If you’ve ever walked the aisles of a hardware store, sat across from a rural client troubleshooting their water well, or spent hours walking customers through product specs, you know surface pumps are one of the most common workhorses for moving water—for homeowners filling above-ground pools, small farmers irrigating vegetable plots, or property managers pulling water from shallow wells. As a surface pump supplier, I’ve spent a decade talking to customers, walking through installation headaches, and addressing post-purchase frustrations that pop up long after the sale is done. For every buyer who sings their praises for low upfront cost and easy access, there’s another who’s learned the hard way that surface pumps aren’t one-size-fits-all. Today, I’m pulling back the curtain on the disadvantages I see show up most often, straight from the trenches of working with water pump buyers every day. Surface Pump

First, and hands down the most common complaint I hear, is their strict limit on pumping depth. Surface pumps rely on atmospheric pressure to pull water up from a source, right? The science is basic: at sea level, atmospheric pressure can lift water roughly 25 feet, give or take a few feet, and that number drops sharply as elevation rises. If you’re installing a surface pump for a 30-foot deep well at 5,000 feet above sea level, that usable suction depth shrinks to barely 20 feet—leaving you with a pump that can’t reach the water at all. I once had a small farmer in central Colorado call me panicking after he’d installed a surface pump for his 28-foot well, only to find it couldn’t pull water more than 19 feet up. He’d thought “up to 25 feet” meant a hard limit, not a fluctuating one tied to altitude. That’s a critical detail most sales pages gloss over; surface pumps are useless for wells deeper than their rated suction depth, and even shallow wells at high elevation will leave you high and dry. Compare that to submersible pumps, which sit submerged right at the water source and push water up, so their depth limit only depends on the length of the discharge pipe, not atmospheric quirks. For anyone with a well over 25 feet deep, or who lives above 1,000 feet above sea level, surface pumps are simply not a practical pick.
Next up is their terrible susceptibility to air leaks and priming issues. This is the gotcha that trips up even first-time installers. Unlike submersible pumps that are fully submerged and always full of water, surface pumps sit above ground, so the entire suction line from the water source up to the pump has to be completely filled with water to start working. That process is called priming, and it’s where most problems begin. If there’s even a tiny crack, loose fitting, or worn seal in the suction line, air will seep in over time. Once air gets into the system, the pump loses its prime, and it’ll sputter, make a horrible grinding noise, or just stop moving water entirely. I’ve had customers come back to me within weeks of installation saying their pump “suddenly stopped working” only to find a $0.50 O-ring had dried out and let air in. Worse, priming isn’t a set-it-and-forget-it job. If the pump is turned off for more than a few days, the water in the suction line drains back into the well, and you have to re-prime it every time you fire it back up. For someone who uses their pump daily to fill a stock tank, that’s a minor nuisance. For someone who only uses their pump a few times a week to water a small garden, or stores their pump over winter, that’s a weekly chore no one wants to deal with. Submersible pumps don’t need priming at all—they’re always full of water, so air leaks or priming cycles aren’t an issue for them. It’s one of the biggest downsides for anyone who values low-maintenance operation.
Then there’s their vulnerability to contamination and weather damage. Surface pumps are, as the name suggests, sitting out in the open, usually mounted on a wall, a concrete pad, or a shed floor. That makes them way more exposed to environmental elements than submersible pumps, which are buried deep in a well. Let’s start with weather: if you live in an area with freezing temperatures, leaving a surface pump exposed outside is a recipe for disaster. Any water left in the pump housing or pipes will expand when it freezes, cracking the pump casing, bursting pipes, or ruining internal parts like impellers. I’ve seen at least a dozen surface pumps come back from winter months in northern states with shattered housing—customers forgot to drain the pump, and that was the end of it. Even moderate weather takes a toll: rain, dust, dirt, and debris can get into the open pump housing, clogging internal components, corroding metal parts, or damaging electrical connections if the pump isn’t properly covered. Submersible pumps, by contrast, are sealed inside a waterproof casing, buried deep in the well, so they’re protected from freeze, debris, and weather extremes. As for contamination, surface pumps pull water from a source that’s near ground level, right? If your well has a shallow water table, or your water source is a creek, pond, or shallow reservoir, surface pumps can easily suck in sediment, sand, debris, or even small insects. That grit and gunk gets pulled into the pump, wears down the impeller and volute at a much faster rate, leading to clogs, reduced flow, and frequent repairs. I once had a customer with a small pond pump in Florida who replaced his surface pump every 18 months because of debris damage, while his buddy with a submersible pump in the same pond had run the same model for 7 years with barely any maintenance. It’s not just debris, either—surface pumps can suck in air that’s mixed with fine sediment, creating an abrasive slurry that eats away at internal parts over time, shortening the pump’s overall lifespan.
The loud noise factor is another disadvantage that most buyers don’t anticipate until their pump is installed. Surface pumps are mounted above ground, and their internal components—like the electric motor and impeller—create a constant, high-pitched hum or thud that’s easily audible, even at a distance. For a homeowner’s well near a backyard patio, a farmer’s pump near the main house, or a pump used in a residential subdivision, that noise can be a real problem. I’ve had multiple customers from suburban areas tell me they received noise complaints from neighbors within a month of installing a surface pump for their small homestead. The noise isn’t just an annoyance for people—for some livestock, it can stress animals, making them eat less or produce less milk, a big issue for small dairy or livestock farmers. Submersible pumps, by contrast, are submerged deep in the well or water source, so their noise is almost completely muffled by water and ground. A submersible pump running a few feet away barely makes a sound above a gentle hum, which is a huge selling point for anyone sensitive to noise or living in close quarters with other people.
And let’s not forget their lower efficiency and higher energy costs, especially over time. Wait, I know that sounds counterintuitive—many surface pumps are advertised as high-efficiency, but that’s only when they’re working at their ideal, shallow depth. As pumping depth increases, the energy required to pull water up sharply goes up. Because surface pumps have to work against atmospheric pressure, they have to expend much more energy to move water through long suction lines, or to pump water vertically over even moderate distances. For example, a surface pump moving water 10 feet vertically and 50 feet horizontally might use 1.5 times more energy than a submersible pump doing the same job. Over the course of a year, that adds up to hundreds of extra dollars in utility costs. Combine that with the higher maintenance I mentioned earlier—replacing seals, impellers, and dealing with priming issues—and the total cost of ownership for a surface pump ends up being much higher than a submersible pump for most applications, even if the upfront cost is lower. I always tell customers: if you’re only using a surface pump for a shallow, temporary setup, the upfront cost is worth it. But if you’re counting on low operating costs for years, you’ll pay more in the long run.
Now, before you write off surface pumps entirely, I want to be clear: they’re not bad pumps. They work great for specific use cases—shallow wells under 25 feet, temporary setups, draining flooded basements, or moving water for small, short-term jobs where ease of installation is more important than long-term maintenance. But as someone who sells pumps, I’d be doing you a disservice if I didn’t be upfront about their flaws. The biggest mistake I see buyers make is buying a surface pump because it’s cheaper upfront, without checking if it’s suited to their depth, elevation, or environment.

If you’re currently weighing your options for a water pump, and you want more details on how to match the right pump to your specific needs, feel free to reach out to our team. We can walk you through depth limits, elevation requirements, and maintenance needs to help you make the best choice for your property.
Gasoline Pump References:
- Hydraulic Institute. (2021). Pump Application Guidelines for Shallow Well and Surface Pumps. Hydraulic Institute Press.
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. (2020). Private Water Well Systems: Operation and Maintenance. EPA Office of Water.
- National Ground Water Association. (2022). Selecting and Installing Water Well Pumps. NGWA Publications.
- Energy Star. (2021. Pump Efficiency Guidelines for Residential and Agricultural Use. U.S. Department of Energy.
- World Health Organization. (2019). Small Scale Water Supply Systems for Rural Communities. WHO Press.
Taizhou Hanner Machinery Co., Ltd.
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